Africa

Sahara Desert Rock Art, Documenting Climate Change

Sleeping Antelope Sahara Rock Art

Sleeping Antelope Sahara Rock Art – Wikipedia

As anyone who knows me can attest, one of the photographic subjects I find most fascinating is rock art. Such art offers a window into the lives and minds of people who lived hundreds and in most cases thousands of years ago. Without a common language or reference, such art often leaves us with more questions than answers, while at the same time reminding us of our connection to the people who created them. The fascinating aspect of the Sahara cave paintings and petroglyphs is that they give us an extra element of detail about the world of their creators that you generally don’t get in the American Southwest, and other places.  We know this, because of the animals and human activities they drew on walls thousands of years ago, are in most cases completely incompatible with the Sahara we see today.  They even show us through the animals depicted at different times, how life in the Sahara was changing, so much so that the various dating periods for the rock art in this area have been defined by the animals displayed. The earliest rock art shows animals that are either completely extinct or which haven’t lived near the Sahara for thousands of years. While more recent rock art displays animals like horses and cattle that were able to live in the Sahara in more recent times, but no longer. And finally, the last prehistoric examples, show animals like the camel which are recent transplants from Arabia, that are among the only large animals that can withstand the Sahara as it currently is.

While some may be skeptical about the ability of such art to give us an accurate picture, other research techniques have since proven, from the study of ocean cores off the West coast of Africa to the finding of freshwater fossils, and lake bed soils in the middle of the Sahara desert, that the Sahara has undergone numerous and repeated climatic changes over at least the last 2 million years. These cycles have shifted it from a bone-dry desert to a lush green landscape sporting some of the biggest lakes in Africa. And the transition from wet to dry has been at times dramatic even on the scale of a single human lifetime.  What the prehistoric rock art shows us, is merely the latest wet to dry cycle in a much longer story about climate.

Here are a few of the places where the Sahara’s dramatic and recent changes have been captured.

Tassili n’Ajjer (Find It) – is a large plateau in south-east Algeria famous for its cave paintings.  Not surprisingly the area remains one of the few places in the Sahara where vegetation and animal life retain a foothold. This is in part due to its altitude and the water holding properties of the soil and rock that make up the plateau. Among the 15,000 carvings found in the area, are depictions of elephants, rhinoceros, hippopotamus, crocodiles, antelope, wild sheep, cattle herding, and horse-drawn chariots. The oldest rock art in the area has been dated to 10,000 B.C.

Because of the importance and abundance of prehistoric rock art in this area, it was designated a national park in 1972.

Acacus Mountains (Find It– In these mountains located on the border of southern Libya and Algeria are depictions of giraffes, elephants, ostriches, camels, and horses.

Ennedi Mountains (Find It) – much of the rock art in this area is of a more recent variety, and displays animals that have lived in the Sahara during historic times, such as camels. Probably the best example is the cave art of Manda Guéli.

Sabu-Jaddi (Find It) – this rock art site, located in today’s Sudan, depicts life in ancient Nubia and features both domestic and wild animals. Animals depicted that are extinct in the Sahara include hippopotamus, crocodiles, giraffe, leopards, and antelope.

Cave of Swimmers (Find It), is a cave in southwestern Egypt, named after what has been interpreted as to be rock art of humans swimming. Other drawings in the cave display giraffe and hippopotamus. The rock art is believed to be from around 10,000 B.C.

Recommended Websites:
Trust for African Rock Art
Bradshaw Foundation African Rock Art Archive

Videos:
When The Sahara Desert Was Green

The Rise of Ancient Egypt 

It has been speculated that it was this dramatic and sudden shift in climate that drove many people who lived in the Sahara to the Nile Valley, and to later form the civilization of Ancient Egypt.  With its predictable water supply from the mountains of Ethiopia, the Nile River, and the fertile soils that surround it offered one of the few remaining refuges within the Sahara’s inhospitable vastness.

Suggested Reading:

Rock Art in Africa: Mythology and Legend – Jean-Loic Le Quellec
What Really Turned the Sahara Desert From a Green Oasis Into a Wasteland?
Green Sahara: African Humid Periods Paced by Earth’s Orbital Changes
National Geographic: Lost Tribes of the Green Sahara

Ancient Christian Monasteries of Egypt

Saint Catherine’s Monastery (Greek Orthodox)

Google Maps: Find It

St Catherine's Monastery - Wikipedia

St Catherine’s Monastery – Wikipedia

Located in the southern mountains of Egypt’s Sinai Peninsula, Saint Catherine’s Monastery is among the oldest Christian monasteries. Founded in 565 by Roman Emperor Justinian I, the monastery has stood for more than fourteen centuries. During that time it faced many dangers, and been attacked on multiple occasions. But despite the monumental changes brought by events like the Arab Conquest, and the Crusades, it remains. The monks of the monastery believe this is due in part to protection they say was bestowed upon the monastery by Muhammad, in a document known as the Ashtiname of Muhammad.

The monastery, which houses the largest known collection of ancient manuscripts (after the Vatican), maintains the oldest continuously operated library in the world. Discovered within its library were a number of important early Christian manuscripts. Included were the Codex Sinaiticus, which is one of the only complete manuscripts of the early Bible, and the Syriac Sinaitic, which was discovered by two sister from Victorian Britain, Agnes Smith Lewis and her sister Margaret Dunlop Gibson. The Syriac Sinaitic, represents the oldest known copy of the gospels written in Syriac, the original language of Biblical writers.

Saint Catherine of Alexandria, the Monastery’s namesake, is said to have been a Christian martyr that was put to death by the Roman emperor Maxentiusm. However, many modern scholars believe the legend of Saint Catherine is actually based on the life and death of Hypatia, a well known Greek philosopher, astronomer, and mathematician that lived in Alexandria. Hypatia, while a pagan, worked with and taught many from the emerging Christian community of her time. But the growing sectarian strife between the two groups ultimately cost her her life, when she was murdered by a mob of Christian monks in 415 A.D.

Videos:
Greek-Orthodox: Monastery Of St.Catherien, Sinai (Egypt)

Suggested Reading: 
The Sisters of Sinai: How Two Lady Adventurers Discovered the Hidden Gospels – Janet Soskice
The Lost History of Christianity: The Thousand-Year Golden Age of the Church in the Middle East, Africa, and Asia–and How It Died – Philip Jenkins

Monastery of Saint Anthony (Coptic)

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Saint Athanasius

Saint Athanasius

The Monastery of Saint Anthony, is named after the monk considered the father of Christian monasticism. Born in 251 A.D. and supposedly dying in 356 A.D. he is said to have lived to be 105, an extraordinary feat at a time in history when most lived into their 40’s and 50’s if they were lucky. Anthony was born to very wealthy landowners, but at an early age, decided to sell or give away his family’s wealth and become an ascetic.  For much of his life he lived in isolation, even purposely avoiding those who would try and follow him, by disappearing deeper into Egypt’s Eastern Desert. But he is also known to have come out of his isolation on several occasions to teach others what he had learned, and to console prisoners in Alexandra. He even offered himself up as a martyr to local rulers who were persecuting local Christians, but was never harmed.

Much of what we now know of Saint Anthony was passed down by several of his followers, including Saint Athanasius, who wrote a biography titled Life of Saint Anthony the Great, and Saint Macarius of Alexandria. The monastery itself was built after Anthony’s death, between 298–300 A.D., near where he’d lived as a hermit.  Over the many centuries of its existence, the monastery saw both periods of peace and persecution. At times it served as a refuge for monks from other monasteries that were being attacked by Bedouin and Berber tribesman.  And at others times it fell victim to attacks itself.

In the Middle Ages it became a destination for religious pilgrims, in particular from the various Crusader armies that visited the Middle East from the 11th through the 13th centuries.

Its more recent history has been marked by periods of prosperity, and others that left the monastery in near ruin.

Videos:
The Origin: Monasteries Of The Desert, Wadi-Al-Natroun (Egypt) • Abbeys and Monasteries
The Last Anchorite –  Father Lazarus El Anthony

Suggested Reading:
Life of St. Anthony of Egypt – St. Athanasius of Alexandria
Desert Father: A Journey in the Wilderness with Saint Anthony – James Cowan
Stories from the Egyptian Desert – Bishop Macarius

Monastery of Saint Macarius the Great (Coptic)

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This monastery was founded by its namesake, Saint Macarius the Great of Egypt, in 360 A.D. Macarius, like many other ascetics of the period, lost his family connections at a young age, gave away what inheritance he had to the poor afterward, and devoted his life to his Christian faith. He also suffered from accusations of immorality by local villagers, which further turned him away from society. This ultimately led him to flee to the Scetis Desert southwest of Alexandria. Through his actions, and eventual relationship with St. Anthony, he soon gained his own following of ascetic monks, around which he built a monastic community, and ultimately the monastery that exists today.

In time, Scetis became a center of Christian monasticism, and home to many Coptic monasteries, a number of which survive to this day.

Videos:
The Light of the Desert Documentary on St Macarius Monastery, Egypt

Monastery of Saint Paul the Anchorite (Coptic)

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This monastery was named in honor of Saint Paul of Thebes, who is often called the first Christian hermit. Paul spent much of his life alone in Egypt’s desert, in part to avoid persecution by various Roman Emperors of the time. Much of what we know of Saint Paul comes from his brief interaction with Saint Anthony, who after a dream sought out the hermit that he’d heard about from others. Legend says that they spent an evening together, eating and talking, and when Anthony arose the next day he found Paul who was already 113, dead. Saint Anthony buried the monk, and brought back what there was of Paul’s possessions to his monastery.

The story of his life was composed in the book Life of Saint Paul the First Hermit , by Saint Jerome around 375 A.D.

The monastery was established in the 5th century, on top of the cave where Paul spent much of his life. Over the course of its existence, the monastery has been inhabited by various groups of monks from Byzantium, Egypt and Syria.

Suggested Reading:
The Cave Church of Paul the Hermit: At the Monastery of St. Paul in Egypt – William Lyster

Syrian Monastery (Coptic)

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Syrian Monastery

Syrian Monastery – Wikipedia

The Syrian Monastery derives its present name, not from a particular saint as most in Egypt, but from the origin of most of the monks that have inhabited it throughout history. Most historical sources suggest the monastery started in the 6th century, and was founded because of a religious disagreement about the nature of Jesus, and whether he was perfect without the ability to sin, or a flawed, potentially corruptible person as we all are. Those who did not share the idea that Jesus was perfect, decided with the blessing of the government at the time to break away and form their own monasteries. In this particular case it was monks who left the nearby Monastery of Saint Pishoy that led to the monastery’s creation.

Some believe the monastery derives its name from a group of Syrian merchants who purchased the monastery in the 8th century, and filled it with monks from their homeland. However the monastery has a long history of accepting refugees from other regions, including Syrians fleeing to Egypt in the 12th century.

Like other monasteries over the centuries, it has faced its own challenges, including attacks from local tribes, and at one point the monastery was decimated by the plague, leaving only one known monk at the monastery when it was visited in 1413.

Over the centuries numerous manuscripts were acquired from the monastery’s library, and now reside at the Vatican and British Museum.

Monastery of Saint Shenouda  (Coptic)

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This monastery takes its name from one of the most revered saints in Coptic Christianity, Shenouda the Archimandrite. It is also called the White Monastery, a name that comes from the color of the limestone it was created from.

Even though the monastery was  founded by Shenouda’s uncle, Saint Pigol (442 A.D.), the monastery saw its greatest growth and influence under the leadership of Shenouda. During Pigol’s time the monastery housed 30 elderly monks. Shenouda grew this number to over 2000. And its name honors his achievements.

Shenouda was also an instrumental player during Ecumenical Council of Ephesus in 431 AD. It was this council and the religious disagreements that followed,  that split a significant segment of the Christian Church in the Middle East from the rest of the Christianity.

Like many other monasteries, the Monastery of Saint Shehounda went through periods of peace and strife, prosperity, and decline. Probably its greatest test occurred during the Arab conquests, when it was highly taxed by the Muslim rulers of the time. This ruined many other Christian monasteries in Egypt, but this particular monastery managed to survive. It also experienced periodic attacks from Bedouin and Berber tribesmen, forcing the construction of a keep to protect the monks.

One other aspect that the White Monastery is widely known, and this again reflects back on Saint Shehounda, was its ancient library. Shehounda strongly emphasized literacy among his fellow monks, who in turn created and preserved a treasure trove of codices and manuscripts that have found their way into countless libraries around the world.

On a side note, the White Monastery shares a historical and geographic connection to another monastic community, known as the Red Monastery.  Its name like the White Monastery, reflects the color of its building material, a red sandstone. Not much is known of the early history of the Red Monastery, other than it was built in the 4th century and is dedicated to Saint Pishay, who was a contemporary of Shenouda.  Its been suggested that the overshadowing, or control of this monastery by the White Monastery may have contributed to the limited knowledge of its history. One historical event we do know about though  was the ransacking and burning of the Red Monastery by the Mamluks. This was reported by the 15th century historian Al-Maqrizi who arrived in the area shortly after it happened, and just reflects the challenges that many Christian monastic communities faced over the centuries in Egypt.

Today the Red Monastery is occupied by a growing community of monks, and was recently the focus of a major restoration effort by the US agency USAID.

Video:
Byzantium and Islam: Age of Transition—The Red Monastery
Virtual tour of the Red Monastery

Saint Bishoy Monastery (Coptic)

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Saint Bishoy Monastery

Saint Bishoy Monastery – Wikipedia

This monastery is named after Saint Bishoy, a well known saint in both the Coptic and Eastern Orthodox Christian traditions. The monastery is considered the most important monastery in Coptic Christianity and the final resting place of the Coptic Pope Shenouda III. Bishoy founded the monastery in the 4th century, and was later buried there at his request, Pope Joseph I of Alexandria.

It is said that Saint Bishoy at the age of 20, was sent went into the desert wilderness of Scetis by God, to live a monastic life. And it was on the site of the current monastery that he chose to live as a hermit in seclusion. In response to attacks by Berbers, he was also known to have sought refuge further south for a time, at the mountain of Ansena, where he befriended another future saint (Paul of Tammah), and founded another monastery that still bears his name.

During its long history, the monastery has been pillaged on at least 5 separate occasions, with its monks both persecuted and killed. There is a well within the monastery, known as the Well of the Martyrs, which commemorates 49 monks that were supposedly killed by raiding Berber tribesmen, and their bodies dumped into it.

The monastery has also seen precious manuscripts stolen by visitors, and turned away other vistors out of fear they would do the same thing.

Ait-Ben-Haddou – Man-Made Wonder – Morocco – Africa

Ait Ben Haddou - Morocco, Africa
Mansa Musa - Sultan of Mali

Mansa Musa – Sultan of Mali

Ksar of Ait-Ben-Haddou

Location: Ouarzazate Province, Morocco, along an ancient trade-route between Marrakesh, and the southern Sahara desert.

Google Maps: Find It

Ait-Ben-Haddou is by far the best preserved example of a historic fortified town (Ksar) in southern Morocco. Located between the Atlas Mountains of North Africa, and the Sahara Desert, the village is made largely of mud, reinforced by wood. A complex of walls, towers, and other communal and private structures, the village is highly susceptible to weathering, and requires continued maintenance even in Morocco’s dry climate. While much of the architecture in Ait-Ben-Haddou dates back only to the 17th century, it typifies how communities built around the trans-Saharan caravan trade developed. And it offers a window into the dangerous nature of such trade and how communities sought to protect themselves from thieves and opportunistic nomadic tribesmen.

It did not help matters, that much of the north bound trans-Saharan trade centered around gold, which was coming out of mines in what is now Mali, Nigeria, and Niger. In fact it has been speculated, that at one point, so much gold was being mined from West Africa, and specifically the Mali Empire, that it produced the richest man who has ever lived – Mansa Musa (1280-1337). Even taking inflation into account, he easily beats Jeff Bezos by more than $400 billion.

Today, with much of the overland camel trade lost to history,  Ait-Ben-Haddou is more of a tourist attraction, than a functioning village (although a few families do remain). But it preserves the mystique of a bygone era, which draws thousands to its fortified walls annually.

Youtube: 4K Tour of Ait-Ben Haddou

Suggested Reading:

Cumin, Camels, and Caravans: A Spice Odyssey by Gary Paul Nabhan
The Golden Trade of the Moors: West African Kingdoms in the Fourteenth Century by E. W. Bovill